Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
